Among the Paiwan, mourning garments are considered some of the most distinctive and culturally significant woven items. Due to the seriousness with which the Paiwan approach death and mourning, these garments hold a central place in their ritual practices. One notable element of this attire is a uniquely shaped hat—either triangular or quadrilateral—worn by women. The wearer begins by wrapping her hair in a headscarf or turban, then places a piece of mourning fabric over it. This fabric is secured at the back of the head with two tightly tied straps, allowing the sides to drape downward . A mourning shawl is typically worn over everyday clothing, placed over the shoulders and fastened across the chest with two ties.
In Paiwan society, the motifs used in mourning attire reflect the wearer’s social rank. Members of the noble class wear elaborately patterned and brightly colored hats and shawls, whereas those of common birth wear plain, undecorated versions. These garments are exclusively worn during mourning rituals or funeral ceremonies and are adorned with patterns that differ from those found in daily wear. Mixing mourning and everyday garments is culturally inappropriate. Furthermore, mourning textiles—whether clothing or headgear—are never offered as gifts. Once these items become too worn for continued use, they may be repurposed as leg coverings or, in finality, buried along with the deceased. Improper disposal of these items is believed to invite misfortune, which, according to tradition, cannot be undone—even by a priestess.
These mourning garments are traditionally woven with ramie fibers for the foundation and warp threads, often dyed with natural indigo. The weft may consist of ramie or other materials like natural wool or synthetic acrylic yarns, commonly used in pickup weaving techniques. Using brocade methods, the resulting patterns are highly refined and visually striking—so much so that the technique is often referred to as “inlay” for its embroidered appearance. Depictions of human faces and figures are frequently created using this intricate approach.
